Ice axes come in different sizes; short axes are best for climbing and long axes are best for walking, although very long axes – those over 60cm long – can be unwieldy to carry. The main difference between walking and climbing axes is the shape of the head, having a pick and an adze. When choosing your axe, lift it with the adze facing forwards and get a feel for how is sits in your hand.

It’s recommended to buy and axe with a leash or loop that can go around your hand or wrist so that if when swinging your axe you lose your grip you don’t lose the axe as well!

There are 2 grades of axe, Basic and Technical. Put simply, the main difference is that the technical grade can be used in more extreme situations.

Taking your axe out with you on a hike however doesn’t necessarily mean you are equipped with the skills and knowledge you might need to be able to use if effectively, so it can be worth looking online for courses in winter mountaineering skills.

Walking poles are a hugely popular addition to your standard walking kit and are proven to help increase the calories you burn while using them as well as alleviating the pressure on your knees – especially when walking downhill.  They also generally help with your balance on uneven ground.

Poles are sold in pairs but some people only choose to use one at a time – perhaps to support an injured knee, or to keep one hand free for balance. One pole certainly makes a difference to the walking experience but using two means you’re more evenly distributing the demand on your body.

Good walking poles are height adjustable – and will require adjusting as you walk over different terrain to ensure their effectiveness – and tend to be telescopic so that they can be secured easily in your rucksack when not in use. Some come with integral shock absorbers – particularly useful if you suffer with arthritic knees.

As with many things, if you aren’t holding your poles correctly, you won’t get maximum benefit from them. A common mistake for walkers is holding the pole incorrectly; the hand should be placed upwards through the strap which allows you to place your weight onto the pole without having to grip it over-tightly.

They can be set to receive data across varying number of channels, usually 12-16. The general rule is the fewer channels, the harder the unit has to work to find the satellites.  You can use them not only to help you navigate, but you can also store your favourites routesif your memory is sufficiently large. Many GPS units these days will plug into your PC at home to allow you to download routes from digital route mapping software such as Track Logs or Memory-Map.

There are a couple of things to look out for when choosing a GPS receiver, firstly, the screen quality, as the data you’ll be viewing might be quite small and detailed so the higher resolution and the larger the viewing screen the better. Secondly, the battery life. If you intend to take your GPS on a long hike you really won’t want it dying on you part way along.   You can get an external power unit with some receivers, but that’s an extra thing to carry.

A final tip is to check the receiver is set up to match the coordinates system that is on your map to avoid getting completely confused and lost!

Finally there is still the airbed option, if you fancy a sweaty half hour with a foot pump after a bit of a trek with a weighty rubber envelope in your pack. Probably not. Saying that, they are very comfy, but not really being in the spirit of the great outdoors they are perhaps best reserved for unexpected guests at home!

They’re basically a waterproof garment worn over the top of the trousers at shin height so that they hang over the top of your walking boots, taking any rainwater away from your leg and preventing any little bits of grit that get kicked up from landing down the side of your boot and causing you irritation.  There are different styles depending on where you intend to use them and they range in price from a cheap and cheerful £15 (don’t expect them to last) up to £50 or £60 for a tougher, more versatile pair. 

The fabric used to make your gaiters is important. You want it to be waterproof, but also breathable so the best pairs are made of material like Gore-Tex.  Be careful when you’re buying gaiters to twin with crampons to make sure they don’t catch on one another as the gaiters will inevitably come off worse!

Crampons allow the wearer to cross snowy slopes on uneven rocky terrain with confidence, but what are they key things to consider before committing to buying a pair? Well it makes sense to take your walking boots with you when you go to try a pair of crampons on, as you need to make sure they fit over your own boots, not just the boots that are on display in the store. Depending on the classification of your boots, only certain crampons will fit and…a chart below shows you which work with what boot. Fitting instructions are worth keeping safe especially if you’re not a regular crampon user.

Boot Classification Crampon Classification
B1 = C1
B2 = C1 or C2
B3  = C1 or C2 or C3

Some crampons have sharper spikes than others, but this isn’t necessarily a good thing as it can mean they snag onto your clothing, especially your gaiters.  The length of the spikes can also determine the amount of grip they’ll give you. Logically the longer the spike the greater the grip in snow, however long spike can catch more readily so if you intend using crampons across a mixed surface it can be less bother to opt for shorter spikes.

The number of spikes is also a factor; the greater number of points the better the grip, but more spikes generally means more money and more weight for you to carry. Finally, the way the crampons attach to your boots may affect your decision as some work on a quick release heel clip mechanism while others are attached via straps which can take longer to remove.