Ice axes come in different sizes; short axes are best for climbing and long axes are best for walking, although very long axes – those over 60cm long – can be unwieldy to carry. The main difference between walking and climbing axes is the shape of the head, having a pick and an adze. When choosing your axe, lift it with the adze facing forwards and get a feel for how is sits in your hand.

It’s recommended to buy and axe with a leash or loop that can go around your hand or wrist so that if when swinging your axe you lose your grip you don’t lose the axe as well!

There are 2 grades of axe, Basic and Technical. Put simply, the main difference is that the technical grade can be used in more extreme situations.

Taking your axe out with you on a hike however doesn’t necessarily mean you are equipped with the skills and knowledge you might need to be able to use if effectively, so it can be worth looking online for courses in winter mountaineering skills.

Walking poles are a hugely popular addition to your standard walking kit and are proven to help increase the calories you burn while using them as well as alleviating the pressure on your knees – especially when walking downhill.  They also generally help with your balance on uneven ground.

Poles are sold in pairs but some people only choose to use one at a time – perhaps to support an injured knee, or to keep one hand free for balance. One pole certainly makes a difference to the walking experience but using two means you’re more evenly distributing the demand on your body.

Good walking poles are height adjustable – and will require adjusting as you walk over different terrain to ensure their effectiveness – and tend to be telescopic so that they can be secured easily in your rucksack when not in use. Some come with integral shock absorbers – particularly useful if you suffer with arthritic knees.

As with many things, if you aren’t holding your poles correctly, you won’t get maximum benefit from them. A common mistake for walkers is holding the pole incorrectly; the hand should be placed upwards through the strap which allows you to place your weight onto the pole without having to grip it over-tightly.

If you want to maintain a comfortable temperature in all weather conditions, choosing to wear a base layer is crucial.  Base layers tend to be made from either Polyester or Merino Wool, two very different fabrics which both perform a critical function; wicking, that is, drawing moisture away from your skin. What that basically means is that you don’t get damp from perspiration as you undertake your energetic walk or climb.  It also keeps any warm air next to your skin. Cotton howeveris very poor at wicking, as it tends to just absorb and hold on to any moisture.  Base layers come with short or long sleeves, the latter being a good option to keep covered up from the sun to avoid getting burned while also keeping you warmer. Layering your clothes is important, a base layer and then a mid layer – something like a light fleece under your waterproof will allow you to make the most of the outdoors in all of our wonderful British weather conditions!

They can be set to receive data across varying number of channels, usually 12-16. The general rule is the fewer channels, the harder the unit has to work to find the satellites.  You can use them not only to help you navigate, but you can also store your favourites routesif your memory is sufficiently large. Many GPS units these days will plug into your PC at home to allow you to download routes from digital route mapping software such as Track Logs or Memory-Map.

There are a couple of things to look out for when choosing a GPS receiver, firstly, the screen quality, as the data you’ll be viewing might be quite small and detailed so the higher resolution and the larger the viewing screen the better. Secondly, the battery life. If you intend to take your GPS on a long hike you really won’t want it dying on you part way along.   You can get an external power unit with some receivers, but that’s an extra thing to carry.

A final tip is to check the receiver is set up to match the coordinates system that is on your map to avoid getting completely confused and lost!

Finally there is still the airbed option, if you fancy a sweaty half hour with a foot pump after a bit of a trek with a weighty rubber envelope in your pack. Probably not. Saying that, they are very comfy, but not really being in the spirit of the great outdoors they are perhaps best reserved for unexpected guests at home!

Make sure the hood is snug but not too snug that you can’t add an extra layer as if it gets really cold you may want to wear a hat too. For flexibility and ventilation – or to free the the foot thermostat – check that there is a sturdy two- way zip and that there are no points where it catches or snags the shell of the bag. This should also allow you to zip two bags together, but check for compatability first.

Finally, what about these silk liners? Well, if you are at risk of the temperature plummeting, using a seperate silk liner may just make it that bit more bearable. They go inside your sleeping bag and their appeal is that they can be hitched over your face to protect against the cold but are permeable enough to breathe through. They may add an extra £30-50 to your sleeping bag bill, but when it gets cold, it’s very likely that it was money you don’t begrudge having spent.

They’re basically a waterproof garment worn over the top of the trousers at shin height so that they hang over the top of your walking boots, taking any rainwater away from your leg and preventing any little bits of grit that get kicked up from landing down the side of your boot and causing you irritation.  There are different styles depending on where you intend to use them and they range in price from a cheap and cheerful £15 (don’t expect them to last) up to £50 or £60 for a tougher, more versatile pair. 

The fabric used to make your gaiters is important. You want it to be waterproof, but also breathable so the best pairs are made of material like Gore-Tex.  Be careful when you’re buying gaiters to twin with crampons to make sure they don’t catch on one another as the gaiters will inevitably come off worse!

If you’re planning a few nights in one place and want to make the place feel a bit homely, do buy a tent that you can stand up in! There’s nothing worse than sitting cramped and bent over because there’s not enough clearance for your head when you are taking shelter from the elements but aren’t actually ready to lie down to sleep just yet.  One generally good rule is to make sure you have seen the tent in its full glory, erected, to make sure your gauge on the size is accurate. Next, buy a tent that is designed to hold one more person than will be accommodating it to give you a bit more room.  If, however, your tent is simply a shelter for one night at a time and weight is an issue, then buy the lightest and most efficient to erect tent that your budget will allow.  And do put it up in the garden before you leave to make sure you know how it goes together and to check all of its parts are present and correct!

If you’re buying a tent to take to a festival like Glastonbury then buying one that you will be able to spot amid everyone else’s might be your priority – now you can even buy tents that you can paint yourself with your own unique design! They may not boast the technical performance of an ultra sophisticated hiker’s tent but it’s about getting the right tent for your needs.

Bivouacs (or bivy bags or bivy sacs as they’re often referred to) are probably the lightest way to travel, but not for the claustrophobic camper.

If the thought of a night under canvas still doesn’t quite hit your hot buttons, there is an alternative, it’s called “glamping” and it basically involves heading for a campsite with ready- pitched large tents, each with their own power supply. It might not be “proper camping” but if you’re new to it, then it’s a sound first step.

Having your movement restricted when you’re half way up a mountain is never ideal and can be dangerous so trousers made with fabric that will stretch both vertically and horizontally is ideal, and being able to squat, bend and move your legs wide apart while wearing them without too much pressure on the knees or crotch is preferable.

Some trousers have panels that are made of tougher fabric in key wear areas such as on the knees to increase the trousers longevity.  As ever with outdoor gear ventilation is important to ensure you don’t overheat while exerting yourself. The legs should have some vents and the pockets should be mesh lined to allow you to cool down.

Pockets with zips to keep valuables safe are useful as are larger pockets that can accommodate your map.  Ankle cuffs should be adjustable where possible and should be worn to sit over your boots to avoid them catching grit and small stones as you move up the hill – otherwise you can wear gaiters to prevent this, because sometimes there’s nothing worse than having a stone in your boot when you know it’s going to take what seems like a lifetime unlacing them, emptying them out and lacing them back up again in order to resume your walk.

Crampons allow the wearer to cross snowy slopes on uneven rocky terrain with confidence, but what are they key things to consider before committing to buying a pair? Well it makes sense to take your walking boots with you when you go to try a pair of crampons on, as you need to make sure they fit over your own boots, not just the boots that are on display in the store. Depending on the classification of your boots, only certain crampons will fit and…a chart below shows you which work with what boot. Fitting instructions are worth keeping safe especially if you’re not a regular crampon user.

Boot Classification Crampon Classification
B1 = C1
B2 = C1 or C2
B3  = C1 or C2 or C3

Some crampons have sharper spikes than others, but this isn’t necessarily a good thing as it can mean they snag onto your clothing, especially your gaiters.  The length of the spikes can also determine the amount of grip they’ll give you. Logically the longer the spike the greater the grip in snow, however long spike can catch more readily so if you intend using crampons across a mixed surface it can be less bother to opt for shorter spikes.

The number of spikes is also a factor; the greater number of points the better the grip, but more spikes generally means more money and more weight for you to carry. Finally, the way the crampons attach to your boots may affect your decision as some work on a quick release heel clip mechanism while others are attached via straps which can take longer to remove.